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Lhotse 8516m. Expedition

Trip Overview

Mt. Lhotse is the 4th highest mountain in the world, it is long east-west crest is located immediately south of Mt. Everest, the summits of the two mountains are connected by the South Col, a vertical ridge that never drops below 8,000 meters. It is considered an independent mountain. It was first climbed by Mr. Ernst Reiss & Fritz Luchsinger of Switzerland on May 18, 1956, via West Face route. An impressive ring of three peaks makes up the Lhotse massif: Lhotse East or Middle 8,413m., Lhotse & Lhotse Shar 8400m. The South Face of Lhotse is one of the largest mountain faces in the world. We attempt to climb the normal route to the tallest peak of the Lhotse massif. Lhotse Base Camp is located beside the Khumbu Glacier, same as Everest Base Camp as well as closed to Island Peak (Imja Tse).

The section during the climb, which has been unanimously declared the most dangerous, is the Khumbu Icefall. The South Face though attempted many times was successful climbed only in 1984 by Czech expeditions. This beautiful massif also holds immense promise as it is little developed and offers fascinating opportunities. You can climb Lhotse either from Everest Base Camp and nearby Chhukung. The trek we follow begins at Lukla (2850m) and the initial days of the trek pass through the legendary Sherpa country up the spectacular high valley of the Khumbu Region.

Outline Itinerary

Day 01: Kathmandu (1400m). Overnight at Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu Kathmandu valley sightseeing. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 03: Expedition preparation day (1400m). Overnight at hotel
Day 04: Morning flight to Lukla (2800m) and Trek to Phakding (2600m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazar (3440m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 06: Acclimatization in Namche Bazar. Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 07: Namche – Dole (4040m). Overnight at Tea house lodge.
Day 08: Dole – Machharmo (4420m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 09: Machharmo – Gokyo (4790m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 10: Explore around Gokyo (4790m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 11: Gokyo to Thangnak (4700m). Overnight at Tea house/lodge.
Day 12: Thangnak – Chola Pass (5368m) to Zonglha (4700m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 13: Dingboche to Lobuche (4910m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 14: Acclimatization day at Lobuche (4910m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 15: Lobuche to High Camp (5,400m). Overnight at tented camp.
Day 16: High Camp to Lobuche Peak (6119 m) & back to High Camp (5400m). Overnight at tented camp.
Day 17: Lobuche High Camp to Ghorakshep (5190m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 18: Gorakshep – Kalapathar to Everest Base Camp (5380m). Overnight at Tented camp.
Day 19 – Day 58: Climbing Period for South Route to Mt. Lhotse (8516m). Overnight at tented camp.
Everest Base Camp to Camp1, Camp1 to Camp2, Camp2 to Camp3, Camp3 to Camp4 to Summit to Camp4, Camp4 to Camp2, Camp2 to Base Camp.
Everest Base Camp: 17700ft. / 5380m
Camp 1: 19900ft. / 6065m. Overnight at tented camp.
Camp 2: 21300ft. / 6500m. Overnight at tented camp.
Camp 3: 24500ft. / 7470m. Overnight at tented camp.
Camp 4: 25850ft. / 7900m. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 59: Gorakshep to Lobuche (4910m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 60: Lobuche High Camp to Tengboche (3870m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 61: Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 62: Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2800 m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 63: Fly to Kathmandu (1400m). Overnight at the hotel.
Day 64: Free day in Kathmandu (1400m). Overnight at the hotel.
Day 65: Departure

Itinerary

Day 01: Kathmandu (1400m). Overnight at Hotel.
Day 02: Kathmandu Kathmandu valley sightseeing. Overnight at the hotel.
Day 03: Expedition preparation day (1400m). Overnight at hotel
Day 04: Morning flight to Lukla (2800m) and Trek to Phakding (2600m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 05: Trek to Namche Bazar (3440m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 06: Acclimatization in Namche Bazar. Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 07: Namche – Dole (4040m). Overnight at Tea house lodge.
Day 08: Dole – Machharmo (4420m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 09: Machharmo – Gokyo (4790m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 10: Explore around Gokyo (4790m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 11: Gokyo to Thangnak (4700m). Overnight at Tea house/lodge.
Day 12: Thangnak – Chola Pass (5368m) to Zonglha (4700m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 13: Dingboche to Lobuche (4910m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 14: Acclimatization day at Lobuche (4910m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 15: Lobuche to High Camp (5,400m). Overnight at tented camp.
Day 16: High Camp to Lobuche Peak (6119 m) & back to High Camp (5400m). Overnight at tented camp.
Day 17: Lobuche High Camp to Ghorakshep (5190m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 18: Gorakshep – Kalapathar to Everest Base Camp (5380m). Overnight at Tented camp.
Day 19 – Day 58: Climbing Period for South Route to Mt. Lhotse (8516m). Overnight at tented camp.
Everest Base Camp to Camp1, Camp1 to Camp2, Camp2 to Camp3, Camp3 to Camp4 to Summit to Camp4, Camp4 to Camp2, Camp2 to Base Camp.
Everest Base Camp: 17700ft. / 5380m
Camp 1: 19900ft. / 6065m. Overnight at tented camp.
Camp 2: 21300ft. / 6500m. Overnight at tented camp.
Camp 3: 24500ft. / 7470m. Overnight at tented camp.
Camp 4: 25850ft. / 7900m. Overnight at tented camp.
Day 59: Gorakshep to Lobuche (4910m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 60: Lobuche High Camp to Tengboche (3870m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 61: Tengboche to Namche Bazaar (3440m). Overnight at Tea house / Lodge.
Day 62: Namche Bazaar to Lukla (2800 m). Overnight at tea house lodge.
Day 63: Fly to Kathmandu (1400m). Overnight at the hotel.
Day 64: Free day in Kathmandu (1400m). Overnight at the hotel.
Day 65: Departure

Equipment List

Useful Info

Accommodation

We will be staying at 3/4 star hotel in Kathmandu, Tea house / Lodge accommodation during trekking and fully camping basis while climbing. All rooms are on a twin-shared basis. The single bedroom will be arranged on request and will cost additional. Utmost Adventure will arrange rooms with attached washrooms; however, while camping there will be tented shower and bathroom.

Meals

All meals will be provided during trekking (On demand, we can arrange only breakfast during the trek and trekkers can order lunch and dinner individually from the tea-house menu). In Kathmandu, breakfast will be available. There will also be welcome and farewell dinners taking place for guests. While on the trek, we have breakfast and dinner in the tea-houses/lodges where we spend the night and lunch on our way to the next destination. Authentic Nepalese, Tibetan, continental meals and Indian cuisine are common choices in the menu.

Physical Condition & Experience Requirements

Mount Lhotse Expedition is a strenuous expedition. Climbers who can walk/climb up to 6-7 hours a day on an uphill and downhill trail will find this expedition fulfilling. It is best that we prepare ourselves for the Lhotse Expedition by climbing, jogging and exercising regularly at least a couple months prior to the start of the expedition. Climbing to the Mt. Lhotse should be relatively fine for those who have experienced climbing over 7,000m. Past climbing, hiking experience would be an asset because technical skill is required for this trip. Participants with pre-existing medical conditions such as heart, lung, and blood diseases should inform Utmost Adventure before booking the trek.

Best Time to Travel

The best time for the expedition to Mt. Lhotse is during spring (April to May) and autumn (October, November). The temperature is moderate and guarantees amazing views throughout the trip. Although this expedition can be undertaken during winter, the cold temperature might not be suitable for everyone.

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Duration 65 days
Transportation Private car/van and domestic flight
Group Size 2-8
Difficulty strenuous
Max Elevation 8516m. - (27,940 ft)
Accomodation Hotel in Kathmandu and Tea house basis during trekking, camping basis while climbing
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